A Classic Bay of Fundy Resort

Work travels this week took me to one of my favourite towns on the Bay of Fundy: St Andrews. When in St Andrews I usually stay at the Fairmont Algonquin. I love the ambiance and history of these classic resorts. Built in the 1880s, The Algonquin originally offered 80 guest rooms, with fireplaces in all the larger rooms. First guests paid $3 to $5 per night for a room complete with water closet!

One of The Fairmont Algonquin's most sought-after features in the early days was the 'cure all' saltwater baths. Saltwater was drawn from Passamaquoddy Bay and held in water tanks in the hotel attic. Guests would immerse themselves in the therapeutic solution in bathtubs designed with four taps - two for fresh water and two for saltwater.

I find it amusing that early advertising proclaimed 'No hay fever here!' and 'A general air of restfulness,' drawing many wealthy tourists with the promise of good health in elegant surroundings - a haven for rejuvenation. In some ways, not much has changed and that's the beauty of it; the hotel is still enchanting and delightful, with lots of great amenities - including spa, of course!

I snapped these two photos: one from my hotel room and one looking toward the main entrance. See previous post on another Fundy classic hotel: The Digby Pines.

Bay of Fundy Cruise News

I just heard that Saint John is getting a new waterfront facility for hosting cruise passengers. The city's cruise scene has grown from 1 ship, 550 passengers in 1989 to 54 vessels, 138,450 passengers in 2007. In fact, all the world's major cruise lines now visit Saint John making it the 2nd busiest cruise port in Atlantic Canada. I was in Saint John this week and, judging by the three ships I photographed here on the waterfront, I think the new cruise visitor centre will very welcome!

Although Saint John is closer to the mouth of Bay of Fundy, one of the cool things is the myriad of Fundy-themed day trips up into the other tidal regions. This is a great way to offer cruise passengers an intro to the phenomenal Bay of Fundy. Take a look at Cruise Saint John for more info.

Bay of Fundy whale video

Tom at Ocean Exploration Zodiac whale cruises in Tiverton, Nova Scotia, just sent me this 4 minutes video footage he taped a few days ago on the bay...these are Humpback whales flipper and tail slapping!...living proof that there are still lots of whales to see in the Bay of Fundy.

Blueberry Grunt

A Bay of Fundy recipe collection would be incomplete without a recipe for Blueberry Grunt. Grunt (not to be confused with other blueberry desserts such as Crumble, Crisp or Buckle) is best characterized by floating dumplings. I've always been a fan of Blueberry Grunt but my admiration took a leap when I tried this particular recipe about eight years ago from The Joy of Ginger cookbook.

Blueberry Grunt
4 c wild blueberries
1/2 c sugar
1/2 c water
1 tsp ground ginger or more
2 c all purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
1/2 t salt
2 Tbsp cold butter
3 Tbsp candied or preserved ginger, chopped
3/4 c milk

- Boil blueberries, sugar, water and ground ginger in a large saucepan until juice is rendered, about 5 minutes.
- Meanwhile, sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.
- Cut in cold butter using a pastry cutter or knife. Stir in finely chopped ginger. Add enough milk to make a soft, sticky biscuit dough.
- Drop dough by tablespoon in the hot berry mixture. Cover tightly & cook 12 to 15 minutes. Serve with French vanilla fresh or frozen yogurt.

(Candied ginger is available in bulk at most health food stores or, if you are really keen you can make it yourself!)

"new" Bay of Fundy Biosphere Reserve

Exciting news from the Bay of Fundy today! The upper Bay of Fundy has just been designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The full region in New Brunswick stretches from the Tantramar marshes by the Nova Scotia border along through Fundy National Park and over to the Fundy Trail & St Martins.

Biosphere Reserves are areas of land and marine environments, which are internationally recognized by the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organisation) Man and the Biosphere Program.

Biosphere Reserves promote and demonstrate a balance between people and nature. While Biosphere Reserves are not parks and don't have jurisdiction over land-management issues, they do serve to combine the four functions of conservation, sustainable economic development, community health, and support for research, education, and training.

It takes many years and tonnes of work to apply for such designation. Congrats to all who worked on the project (including my boss, Tom Young!)

Click here for the UNESCO site if you’d like to read more.

Of course we've got whales!

Visitors to the Bay of Fundy rightly assume they can go whale watching in the summer but are often unsure about the 'whale situation' in the Fall. Not to worry: there are plenty of whales here now! Here 's the scoop from a few of our whale watch businesses...

Yes, the whale watching season is still going on! We'll be operating until October 10 and depending on demand and whale sightings we may stay on a little longer. We have been sighting finback and minke whales inshore and offshore, and humpbacks offshore. We have a special departure for a Right Whale cruise on September 30 - our blog is updated daily pretty much with information and lots of pictures ~ Lisa at Quoddy Link Marine, St Andrews, New Brunswick

We'll be operating until the 15th of October (weather permitting). There are still plenty of whales around and they tend to remain until mid November. Still a lot of great sightings to come....I'm sure! ~ Barb at Mariner Cruises, Brier Island, Nova Scotia

Still lots of great whale watching to come in the Bay of Fundy. We'll be open until Oct 15th. We saw Humpbacks, Finbacks and Minke whales today. ~ David at Fundy Tide Runners, St Andrews, New Brunswick.

I'm usually the last operation in the region to close ..... end of October! Last year we saw 8-15 whales each of our last trips end of October (better than the summer!) Humpbacks and fin whales, but Right whales were also around through into November (last year) .... just further away (closer to Grand Manan). Tom at Ocean Explorations, Tiverton, Nova Scotia.

Photo credits: Red hood & whale tail - Becky Cook, Mariner Cruises
Whale tail - Quoddy Link Marine.

Bay of Fundy Island Aerial

Here's a couple of our Fundy islands from the air - i love the layers of sediment. Great photo from a colleague, Carl Newman, from Florida who 'happened to be driving by' (in the air, that is) on his way to Halifax to have his hurricane hunting aircraft serviced (yes, this is for real!).

The only thing is... I'm embarrassed to say that I'm not quite sure which islands they are...I don't often see the Bay of Fundy from the air so I'm a bit puzzled. I'm thinking they are Two Islands or a couple of the Five Islands in Minas Basin. Got any ideas? Send me a comment using the Comment tab below...!

Mud, mud, glorious mud!

Here's some Bay of Fundy insider information: how to enjoy a do-it-yourself, no-cost Bay of Fundy foot spa.

• Visit the upper part of the Bay of Fundy - Minas Basin or Chignecto Bay - best.
  
• Walk down to the beach at low tide, remove shoes, roll up pantlegs, walk out on the ocean floor, seek muddiest sections of beach
• Enjoy the sklooshing of good clean mud between your toes, repeat, laugh, and celebrate our wonderful Bay in all its forms.

Took this video on Evangeline Beach, near Wolfville, this weekend. It was about 30 degrees with no wind so by late afternoon all roads lead to the beach, not to swim, but to mud. Not very sophisticated but oh, so fun! (p.s. don't forget to check the local tide schedule before you go and to keep a close eye on the moving beach around you!). Also please refrain from walking on these beaches in August when migratory birds are feeding & should not be disturbed.

Bay of Fundy Tidal Village on Stilts!

This week I was delighted that work-related travels took me to a great little Bay of Fundy community at the opposite end of the Bay: Bear River, Nova Scotia.

Bear River is not your typical town, even for the Bay of Fundy! True, like some it's located six kilometres inland on a tidal river but downtown you'll discover something peculiar: many buildings propped up over the river on stilts!
I took this photo at low tide. You can see that the river has become but a stream, revealing the stilts that underpin these historic buldings.

Easy access to this waterfront enables visitors to see both the horizontal and vertical effects of the Bay of Fundy tides. (There is a good explanation of these two tidal effects on the Bay of Fundy Tourism Partnership website). Seeing Bear River's high and low tide extremses definitely qualifies as one of the Bay's "cool things to do"!

The Scoop on Wild Blueberries

Here are a few of the questions we commonly get asked about wild blueberries....

Why do they grow so well around the Bay of Fundy?

Wild Blueberries really like the glacial soils and climate in our region (including the state of Maine in the U.S.) - see map for key blueberry producing regions.

I've heard that Wild Blueberries are one of only a few berries native to North America. What are the others?

Like Wild Blueberries, Concord grapes and cranberries have grown naturally here for thousands of years.

How do Wild Blueberries differ from cultivated blueberries?

• Taste: Their unique mixture of tanginess and sweetness give wild blueberries delicious burst of natural flavor, unlike the slightly sour taste of cultivated blueberries (in my opinion)
  
• Size: Naturally smaller and more compact than cultivated berries, the wild ones deliver more berries per pound.
• Performance: Wild blueberries hold their shape, texture and deep-blue color through a variety of baking and manufacturing processes. And they freeze extraordinarily well. In fact, individually quick frozen (IQF) wild blueberries maintain their quality for more than two years.
• Higher Antioxidant properties: Wild blueberries contain more anthocyanin – a powerful antioxidant linked to protection against brain aging – than their cultivated cousins.

Visit the Wild Blueberry Producers Association website for more info on the health benefits of blueberries.

Raking in the Blue!

Those of us familiar with cattle or grain farms may be surprised to learn that there are farms around the Bay of Fundy whose sole existence depends on blueberries. Big business though they may be, blueberries are still mostly harvested here the traditional way: by hand with a blueberry rake! This rake looks like a strange combination of a metal dustpan and a broad-toothed comb (note the inside handle).

Most of our blueberries are wild blueberries (as opposed to the jumbo highbush or cultivated berries) so, as you can imagine, this is back breaking, if tasty, manual labour. Still, most of us have done it, and many continue to scoop throughout the blueberry season from mid-August through early September. There is nothing like being paid by the pound to teach you the value of a good day's work!

Happy Blogday to me!

All of a sudden I realized I've reached two milestones with my Bay of Fundy blog: I just made my 200th post and I celebrated my one year anniversary as a blogger this week. This Bay of Fundy blog was launched on Sept 2, 2006! It amuses me greatly now that I once worried I'd run out of things to say about the Bay of Fundy...clearly not a problem!
Here are a few of my favourite posts from the early few months of blogging:
Must...have...chocolate...,
Whales are following me!,
very cool Fundy 3D map,
Lobster for Christmas dinner,
Winter arrives on the Bay of Fundy.

Drying Dulse on the Beach

Although bagged dulse is available year round in every corner store on the Bay of Fundy this is the time of year when some of the best harvesting is done. As noted in previous posts, dulse is simply plucked out of the water at the lowest of low tides then laid out above the tide line to dry (so it doesn't get washed back out into the Bay when the tide comes in!). This activity is fairly low tech but it dries the dulse to perfection! Here are some folks at the task at Partridge Island beach, near Parrsboro, Nova Scotia. Previous dulse posts: Seaweed Anyone?, Do We Really Eat Seaweed?, Many Forms of Dulse, Got Dulse?,

Blueberry Ginger Sorbet

Now that our blueberries are abundant, it's a perfect time to 'waste' a whole bunch on blueberry sorbet - combining two of my favourite Bay of Fundy flavours: blueberry and ginger! This recipe comes from The Joy of Ginger cookbook.

Blueberry Ginger Sorbet

1 cup + 2 Tbsp white sugar
1 cup + 2 Tbsp water
3 Tbsp grated ginger
6 cups wild blueberries
1/4 c lemon juice

1. Combine sugar, water, ginger in medium sauceapn and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Let stand til cool.
2. Place this syrup along with blueberries and lemon juice in blender; blend til smooth. Strain through a fine wire sieve.
3. Refriderate until cold, then freeze.
4. Before serving, take it out of freezer and let stand for a half hour. (The flavours stand out best when softened slightly).

Makes about 5 cups. P.S. Watch out for funny blue teeth!!

Rapelling at Cape Enrage

In additional to searching for rocks on the beach , there are other ways to get "up close and personal" with Bay of Fundy geology - such as by rappelling. Since our tides cause constant coastal erosion it's best to do this with the assistance of staff who have the gear and the proper training. If you are inclined toward rappelling, you would likely get a kick out of visiting Cape Enrage in New Brunswick. Rappelling here involves about two hours of descents (about 6 repetitions if you're up for them) on 140-ft cliffs overlooking the Bay of Fundy's tides and currents. It will inspire those of us who are middle-aged to know that an 80 year old Fundy gal celebrated her birthday a couple years ago by rappelling at Cape Enrage!

Norman-style chateau on the Bay of Fundy

I just realized that since making the 'architecture' category on my blog last month, I haven't actually created many posts - yet truth be told Bay of Fundy architecture could easily fill its own blog for many years. To me, the architecture around the Bay is such an intriguing mix of classic, creative and quirky!

Take this Norman-style chateau, for example. It's the Digby Pines Resort in Digby, Nova Scotia. This classic resort has welcomed guests from all over the world to the Bay of Fundy since 1929. During a recent stay at the Pines, I got up early to catch the terrace in morning light as well as the view across the pool to the Bay. I love the ambiance and historic feel of these beautifully maintained vintage hotels!

Look What The Tide Dragged In...

You never quite know what the 100 billion tonnes of water moving into the Bay of Fundy on each tide is going to drag in...

Whale tour operator, Quoddy Link Marine in St Andrews, New Brunswick just reported seeing this rare ocean sunfish, Mola mola. Here is an excerpt from the Quoddy Whale blog:

These bizarre looking fish, from the same family as pufferfish, averages about 6 feet long and weighs 2200 lbs! The most obviously strange part is their shape, they look like a fish head without a tail. Through the course of evolution their caudal fin (tail) has disappeared and been replaced by a pseudo-fin called a clavus. Their diet consists mainly of jellyfish and to maintain their bulk they have to consume a very large amount. Ocean sunfish are covered in a slime instead of scales and they swim by a characteristic sculling motion of their dorsal and anal fins. They are the heaviest "bony" fish in the world, but their bodies are actually mostly comprised of cartilaginous tissues which is lighter than bone and can allow them to grow to such a large size (which is uneconomical for other bony fishes).

For a clearer photo and more info on the Mola mola, visit Wikipedia.

Oh, To Be A Bay of Fundy Cow!

This is definitely not the first time I've come across a field of cows grazing nonchalantly beside a million dollar view. I find quite refreshing that we've got so many lovely fields like this around the Bay of Fundy. In many other parts of the world pastures with such views would have already been sold for housing developments. Maybe we're a bit behind the times but maybe we like it that way....

Blueberry Cake

The Bay of Fundy region has the perfect soil and climate for growing blueberries. Early August bring the wild blueberry harvest season which will continue for about a month. I noticed the first folks out scooping this morning. Looks like time to dust of my favourite blueberry cake recipe. This is the best!

Blueberry Cake with Lemon Sauce

1 scant cup butter, room temp
2 c white sugar
½ c milk
½ c hot water
4 eggs
3 ¼ c flour
½ tsp salt
2 tsp baking powder
2 c blueberries (fresh or frozen)

Cream butter and sugar. Add milk and boiling water. Stir. Sift flour, salt & baking powder. Add alternately with eggs. Fold in berries gently. Put in 9 x 13 pan.

Topping

Mix the following with a pastry cutter. Sprinkle atop the cake batter in the pan.
½ c brown sugar
½ c cold butter
¾ c flour

Bake at 350F for 45 min to 1 hr

Sauce
Generally, I'm all for making everything from scratch but seriously this is an awesome sauce that is a whole lot easier to make: it's lemon pie filling! Just mix according to directions, but add up to 1 c extra water to thin it to sauce consistancy.

Quartz crystals

One of the neat things about basalt is that other rock seams are sometimes found between its layers. A rough seam of quartz crystals lies exposed at Cape Sharp. Here are some photos I took last weekend (with my hand in there for some perspective). Typically Fundy, I think there might be some agate mixed in there too!

Columnar basalt

Probably the best known example of columnar basalt around the Bay of Fundy is Balancing Rock in Tiverton, between Digby and Brier Island, Nova Scotia. It only takes about 15 minutes to hike out to the lookoff. Here it's obvious that the original lava cooled into angular columns. You may have heard of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland - one of the world's amazing places to see hexagonal basalt columns. I haven't been there yet but it's on my list!

Molten lava in the Bay of Fundy

Basalt is the most common type of solidified lava on earth; it actually makes up most of the ocean floor. The Bay of Fundy tides, our constant erosion and our complicated geological history result in a good deal of basalt available here to be 'seen'. Previous readers of my blog will recall references to 'basalt headlands' such as the one over my shoulder at Cape Sharp in Sunday's post two days ago. That's is basalt in its craigy, scarpy form. Basalt also presents here in two other ways: as obvious columns and as rock faces smoothed by the tides. I always think that the smooth basalt looks close to its original molten lava form. I snapped this photo at Cape Sharp beach.

Hike to Cape Sharp

Took advantage of the great weather this weekend to hike out to Cape Sharp lighthouse. Cape Sharp is located near the village of Black Rock, overlooking the Minas Channel (near where the proposed tidal energy project may be) near Parrsboro, Nova Scotia. The hike to the lighthouse is about 20 minutes via the old access road. The lighthouse was automated in 1989 so that road is only traversable by foot now. Doesn't bother me - it's well worth it for both the view and the solitude. The lighthouse itself is a salt shaker style, dating from 1886. It stands about 35 feet in height and its light reaches out 11 miles in the upper Bay of Fundy. That's just about perfect because that's pretty much the distance over to Cape Blomidon on the opposite side of the Bay! Luckily the tide was out today enabling me to take this photo looking up to the lighthouse from the beach - at high tide here I'd be way under water. All safe up on the lighthouse though where I stopped to explore the panoramic view.

Tidal energy info sessions start Monday

Just heard that the Offshore Energy Environmental Research Association will hold a series of six environmental assessment community forums starting next Monday.

The forums will provide an opportunity to share information about the potential to generate tidal energy in the Bay of Fundy using tidal in-stream turbines.

"The Bay of Fundy may be the best location in the world for grid-connected tidal power generation, but this form of renewable energy technology is still very new," said Meinhard Doelle, chairman of the Fundy Tidal Energy Technical Advisory Group.

The forums will run from 7 to 9 p.m. The dates and locations are:

August 13, Monday, Yarmouth, Rodd Grand Yarmouth;

August 14, Tuesday, Digby Pines Golf Resort & Spa;

August 15, Wednesday, Wolfville, Acadia University;

August. 20, Monday, Parrsboro, Fundy Geological Museum; Aug. 21,

Truro, Best Western Glengarry Hotel; Aug. 22, Halifax, Dalhousie University.

Pre-registration for the forums is available at Offshore Energy Research office (click on Events) or by calling Wanda Barrett at 1-888-257-8688. For more info on tidal energy in the Bay of Fundy see the sidebar of my blog.

Actual site of highest recorded Fundy tides

Yikes! I neglected to mention one more very interesting location for seeing the tides around the Bay of Fundy: the site where the highest tides in the world measurement was taken! The record was set at Burncoat Head, near Maitland, Nova Scotia. Burncoat Head Community Park consists of a great little park and restored lighthouse/interpretive centre. Here you can walk on the beach at low tide, view the tides from the lookoff, and explore the many smooth sandstone rock formations. The rock formations are so intriguing here that Burncoat Head looks like a moonscape (see photos). All rock formations become small islands at high tide of course. The normal tidal range here is about 15 metres or 50 feet. The record here is 17 metres or 56 feet.

How to 'see' tides - 4th way

4) One other way to see the tides is to visit a location where the tidal rapids, whirlpools or rips can be seen. The Bay of Fundy coast is definitely not smooth and linear; there are many craigy cliffs and sharp headlands jutting out into the Bay and, I supppose, in some ways interfere with the flow of water in and out of the Bay, or at the very least cause the water to flow in interesting patterns.

This is a photo of the "Old Sow: the largest whirlpool in the western hemisphere, the second largest in the world - second only to the Maelstrom Whirlpool of Norway. Located between Deer Island and Indian Island, this natural wonder can be seen from the shores of Eastport, Maine. It is called “Old Sow” because of the sounds that are heard from the churning waters. The best time to see the "Old Sow" is 3 hours before high tide.

Other places to see tidal rapids and rips include:
in New Brunswick

• by boat in the Passamaquoddy Bay (such as off the coast of St Andrews or between Black's Harbour and Deer Island)
  
• Reversing Falls in Saint John
  
• Cape Enrage

in Nova Scotia

• Cape d'Or near Advocate
• Cape Split - it's a 4 hr hike out there (near Wolfville)
• in the water passages of Digby Neck and Islands: Long Island, Brier Island

How to 'see' tides - 3rd way

3) Vertical Tidal Effect - This is the effect seen at most of our wharves around the bay. This is also best seen at high then low tide but if you are really stuck and can only visit for an hour or so, plan to visit at low tide. At low tide local fishing boats are sitting high and dry on the ground against the wharf while the tide is a mile or so away. Or at low tide thick gooey riverbanks and riverbeds of mud are exposed. See photos in the high-low photo section of my blog.

Some of my favourite harbours where this can be seen...
in New Brunswick:

• Alma, St Martins, Hopewell Cape, the Chocolate River near Hillsborough, Petticodiac River in Moncton, Sackville

in Nova Scotia

• Advocate Harbour, Parrsboro, Hall's Harbour, Margaretsville, Harbourville, Digby

How to 'see' the tides - 2nd way

Here's another way to 'see' the tides...

2) Horizontal Tidal Effect - this phenomenon occurs in many locations in the upper part of the Bay of Fundy but you need to allow 6 hours to appreciate it. Basically, it involves going to the same beach at both high and low tide to see the difference. If you are accustomed to the 1-6 foot tides in the rest of the world, this may not sound very impressive. However, with the volume of water we have moving in & out of the Bay (100 billion tonnes each tide, 50 ft tides) the horizontal effect can be a truly an amazing sight!

At low tide a vast expanse of the ocean floor is exposed. In the upper part of the Bay the tide can be a few miles away from where it was at high tide. And, of course, there is nothing like sea kayaking at high tide over where you were previously walking at low (see links).

Here are a few of my favourite places to explore the horizontal effect:
In New Brunswick...

• St Martins - eat 'world's best chowder' at the waterfront restaurant, explore the ocean floor and sea caves at low tide. Seakayaking available. You can also get out onto the beach at the Fundy Trail or at least see the intertidal zone from its various accessible lookoffs.
  
• Alma - explore the intertidal zone (that's what we call the exposed ocean floor) carefully on your own or take in a program there at Fundy National Park. Sea kayaking.
  
• Hopewell Rocks - the Rocks (as we locals call 'em) are probably the most photographed image of the Bay of Fundy. There is a great interp centre here as well as many acccessible lookoffs and, of course, access to the ocean floor and the famous 'flower pot' sea stacks. Seakayaking here too.
  

On the Nova Scotia side of the bay...

• Joggins - one of the coolest things about low tide at Joggins is the exposure of a vast expanse of fossils and geological reefs. Previous blog readers may remember me mentioning that the Joggins Fossil Cliffs will soon receive UNESCO world heritage site status. There is a fabulous new interpretive centre under construction there - should be open this fall. There is still beach access there now but it kinda helps to be with staff so you know what you are looking at! Kayaking in nearby Advocate.
  
• Five Islands - the stretch of Route 2 from the village of Economy, through Five Islands then to Parrsboro is one of the best places to see the vast intertidal zone. Here both Five Islands Provincial Park and Two Islands (near Parrsboro) are not surrounded by water at low tide. Recent readers will recall me mentioning the 'new' Not Since Moses' running event around the Five Islands at low tide. Don't try this without a guide!
  
• Grand Pre - One of the most easily accessible Bay beaches Evangeline Beach near Grand Pre, Nova Scotia. Grand Pre is the village near Wolfville. The nice thing about visiting Grand Pre is that during the 6 hr interval there is lots to do in the area. There is a national historic site in the village of Grand Pre itself - recalling the history of the Acadians (our French settlers who were expelled in the 1780s). This is also Nova Scotia wine country; there are several wineries in the area - one , the Grand Pre Winery, right in Grand Pre.

(added photo on Aug 10 - Five Islands at low tide)

How to 'see' the tides - 1 way

Speaking of questions from folks, this is probably the question Bay of Fundy-ites get asked the most: "Where can I go to 'see' the tides?". The answer to this question is more complicated than you may think. Over the next few days I will give you my best four answers to this single question.

1) Tidal Bore - even if you've never been here before, you'll probably have some pre-awarenss of the phenomenon known as the tidal bore: outflowing rivers flowing back upstream as the tide comes in. Folks who have never been to Fundy before tend to take our 50 foot tide measurement and combine it with the bore concept - then end up thinking that we have a 50 foot (think: tsunami!!) bore twice a day, which we do not. The actual rapids of a tidal bore range between about 10 to 12 feet which is still pretty cool.

Many rivers in the upper part of the Bay have tidal bores but, unless you're a local, you may have trouble finding them. Visitors usually like to visit those with some interpretation. Most of these are on the Nova Scotia side of the bay. I'd suggest:
1) the Maccan River about 10 minutes from Amherst where there are interpretive panels,
2) the tidal bore in Truro just out by the Palliser restaurant
2)the South Maitland Tidal Bore Lookoff where there is an interpretation centre and some panels.

Note that the bore time does not match either the high or low tide times listed on the tide chart for that community. The bore time varies depending on where you're perched to view it from the riverbank.

Personally, I think the best way to experience this tidal change is to go white water rafting in it...it's interesting to watch from the shore but it is hugely fun to raft in. If this is your kinda thing there are two companies I can recommend - I've gone with both: Shubenacadie River Runners and Shubenacadie Tidal Bore Rafting Park. They are located in the village of Maitland about 40 min from Hfx airport in the opposite direction from Halifax. so that'a about 1.5 hr from Halifax.

How to read the Bay of Fundy tide chart

I had an email from someone in Texas this week. They were looking for some tips on how to read a tide chart. This is, in fact, a bit tricky so I'm happy to explain:

1. Best source of tide times (in my opinion) - The Canadian Hydrographic Service, Dept Fisheries, You can zoom in on a map for any geographic area in Canada.

2. Then you can choose a community & the dates you want to visit from the menu bar.
A chart like this will pop up. This chart (for Parrsboro) is saying that low tide today is at 5:16 am and then again at 17:30 (5:30 pm). High tide will be at 11:26 (it will be a 33.8 ft tide), then high tide will be back at 23:44 (11:44 pm) - a 36.7 foot tide.

2007-07-27 (Friday)
Time	Height
ADT	(m)	(ft)
05:16	2.	9.2
11:26	10.3	33.8
17:30	3.1	10.2
23:44	11.2	36.7

A Bay of Fundy Plein Air Paintout

Just heard of an interesting event happening around the outer edge of the Bay of Fundy this week: a Plein Air Paintout! Twelve artists from the Bay of Fundy region are participating in this 'first annual' event. Painting is happening in situ in Lubec, Maine, and on Campobello Island, NB, among other lovely Fundy coastal spots. Art created from the paintout will be exhibited at historic Mulholland Market in Lubec until August 25.

This is one of participant & instructor Micheal Chelsey Johnson's pieces that was created during the paintout this week. Here's how Michael describes the scene:

The tide went out while we worked, and the clamdiggers showed up with their big wheelbarrows and high boots to work in the mudflat. (I did not include the clamdiggers in my piece.)

Check out other Fundy Plein Air artists in the Art section of my blog.

Conquering Red Rocks!

A glorious day today on the Bay of Fundy! We had company this weekend and did what any Fundy-ite does: took 'em to the beach. We had fun at "Red Rocks" just inside the entrance to Cape Chignecto Provincial Park in Advocate Harbour, NS: clambering up and over these smooth but abrupt rock formations.

If you want to be assured of taking photos that always look 100% perfect, there is no better subject than the contrast between sandstone boulders and blue sky. This is a photo of me "conquering" one of the higher ones - Terri on top of the world!!

Introducing the mudflats

Last, but not least among the five types of Bay of Fundy beaches, allow me to present the often under-appreciated mud flat. Personally I think there is nothing better than Fundy's red/brown mud sklooshing up to swallow my running shoe or, even better, slicing between barefoot toes. Em, don't look took closely at the mud though - there are microscopic shrimp in there, a critical food source for our migratory shorebirds!

Introducing the pebble beach

Fourth in my series of beachscapes around the Bay of Fundy is the pebble beach. Here the rocks are about the size of almonds and peas; far smaller than the cobble beach. Pebble beaches combine with sand to make for easy walking along the ocean floor at low tide. Sometimes, like here at Second Beach, pebbles can 'transform' into mudflats - your best running shoes are not always the best choice for foot attire here!

Introducing the sand bar beach

Bay of Fundy tidal turbulance often whips the lighter bits of the ocean floor into sand dunes or sandbars. At low tide these are great fun to explore but they're also an easy way to get marooned by the incoming tide. Sandbars like this one at Second Beach can quicky become an islands and, as the tides continue to rise, soon covered with 30 to 40 feet. It's always best to know accurate high/low tide times and be 360 degrees aware when you explore the Bay's many beaches.

Introducing the reef beach

The formal definition of a reef is a ridge of rock just below the surface of the water. Reefs around the coast of the Bay of Fundy are below the surface at high tide then fully exposed at low tide. This is a basalt reef at Second Beach. The exposed edge of basalt (a normally angular volanic rock) is slightly smoothed by the daily tides and becomes welcome habitat for various Fundy seaweeds, perwinkles and other small creatures.

Introducing the cobble beach

Here around the Bay of Fundy there are about a half dozen types of beaches. Many beaches, particularly at low tide, have a combination of beach terrains including: cobble beach, sandy or sand barred beach, reefed beach, pebble beach and mud flats.

I think I'll run a 5-day series of photos I took last weekend at one beach: Second Beach in Parrsboro, Nova Scotia. All five types of beach terrain appear within a 100 metres along this one beach!

Today's photo shows a cobble beach. From a geological point of view cobbles are round and oval rocks measuring between 3 and 10 inches in diameter. Most folks would be familiar with ocean or river cobble stones being used to make sidewalks or hearths.

Don't let cobbles deter you from exploring the beach. They are a bit tricky to walk on but often you'll need to traverse a band of cobbles to get further on to the ocean floor so it's well worth it!

More funds for Bay of Fundy tidal energy

Just heard today that a Bay of Fundy tidal power pilot project proposed by Nova Scotia Power and its Irish partner Open Hydro has received a $4-million shot in the arm from Sustainable Development Technology Canada.

The project cost to install an in-stream turbine on the bottom of the Bay of Fundy is expected to be $12-million.

This project will involve comprehensive environmental and oceanographic monitoring of a turbine placed in some of the strongest-known tidal currents in the world. (see map for places in the world that Open Hydro has identified as having the best tidal power potential - I marked in the Bay of Fundy).

The first Fundy turbine would produce one megawatt of electricity, enough to power 300 households. The project must still receive provincial environmental approval. The partners hope to have it operating by 2009 and test its operation in the following two years.

I'm continuing to follow this quite closely from my front row seat here on the Bay of Fundy, near the proposed tidal energy staging area - see sidebar for previous posts about tidal energy.

Bay of Fundy birth annoucement (of whales, that is)

The Bay of Fundy has become a bit of a nursery lately with the arrival of ten humpback mothers with their calves. Humpback whale calves are born in the Caribbean after a 12 month gestation. They drink about 50 gallons of milk from their mother, gaining several hundred pounds per week. They stay with their moms for about a year after they have been weaned at the Northern feeding grounds. Visit Brier Island Whales & Seabird Cruises blog to find out more.

This is a photo Foggy's tail fluke. Foggy had her first calf, Sparkler, in 2000 and her second, Motley, in 2003. Her 2007 calf will not be named until it makes its return to the Gulf of Maine after it leaves its mother.

"Not Since Moses" run across the ocean floor

Just when I thought I'd heard everything along comes a new, wildly zany yet oddly spiritual event: the first annual Not Since Moses run across the Bay of Fundy's ocean floor.

Happening this Saturday, July 7, in Five Islands, Nova Scotia, the aptly named Not Since Moses is reminiscent of Moses' biblical parting of the Red Sea. For awhile at low tide the ocean floor linking the islands to the coastal village is fully exposed (see photo). This, with proper planning and guidance by a local, is enabling a fully organized 10 k run and a 5 k walk. Yikes - don't ever try this on your own!!

Owner of one of the islands, Dick Lemon, is the originator and organizer of the event. Lemon, from California, purchased Long Island in 2003 to build Five Islands Retreat, a “restorative place for writers, musicians, artists and other interesting people.”

I chatted with Dick this week about the run. He's convinced the Not Since Moses will become a world famous running event and, after hearing more about it, so am I!

Where the wild peas grow

Where else would you expect to find copious amounts of wild peas but beachside around the Bay of Fundy? Took this photo of pea blossoms this afternoon. I've heard that our first nations, the Mi'kmaq, used both the peas and blossoms for medicinal purposes.

Historic John Lusby Marsh

Whoa, I knew I'd really caught the photography bug when I snapped this photo out of my car window while driving this week. This is a cheery, somewhat unsung spot on the Bay of Fundy: the John Lusby Marsh located on the Cumberland Basin just west of Amherst, Nova Scotia.

This marsh has the distinction of being the largest continuous tract of salt marsh remaining in the upper Bay of Fundy. The 1020-acre marsh was diked by Acadian settlers about 300 years ago. Much of the marsh is still farmed although some has returned to salt marsh conditions due to erosion of the historic dikes. Lusby Marsh is a National Wildlife Area under the Wildlife Area Regulations of the Canada Wildlife Act.

The wildlife area consists of John Lusby Salt Marsh and Amherst Point Migratory Bird Sanctuary, two very different wetlands, and separated by a narrow, 1 km-wide upland ridge. I was driving on road across this ridge when I snapped this photo.

Rafting the tidal bore

A list of cool things to do around the Bay of Fundy would be incomplete without mention of another of our zany water sports: rafting the incoming tidal bore. This is sort of the same idea as jet boating Reversing Falls mentioned in a previous post. The incoming Fundy tide creates a roller coaster of turbulance when it meets the flow of outgoing rivers. There are many tidal bores on rivers of all sizes around the Bay but the Shubenacadie River, near Maitland, Nova Scotia offers the full rafting deal. Zodiacs are the boat of choice; quickdry fabrics the garb of choice (well actually, float suits are superb in May and October). This experience involves weaving in and out of the tidal rapids for a 2-hr or 4-hr adventure.

I've gone tidal bore rafting with two excellent companies: Shubenacadie River Runners and Shubenacadie Tidal Bore Park. They've both got great facilities and energetic, qualified staff to lead the rafting experience. It's a blast!

Walking the Saint John waterfront

One of the other great activities to do in Saint John is to explore the newly reclaimed "Harbour Passage" waterfront trail system. It's a beautifully crafted set of walking/cycling trails all along the harbour's edge. The trail also includes lookoffs, interpretive panels, benches and great places to stop to read the paper, watch the tide come in, or the fog lift. I took these snaps early this morning while I was one of a few walkers out enjoying the views!