That's the way to eat lobster

There are lots of great roadside fish markets around the Bay of Fundy and, if you're lucky, you can even buy lobster fresh off the wharf. The Fundy town of Alma, New Brunswick, probably wins the prize though - they've got three really nice waterfront fish markets. No fresher way to serve the over 200,000 annual visitors to nearby Fundy National Park.

In my travels to Alma this week, I popped in to Butland's Seafood Market to grab a lobster for lunch. The one great thing about a lobster market is that your lobster is guaranteed to be cooked to perfection, and this one was! It's served on newsprint in a cardboard box with little tubs of coleslaw and potato salad on the side. I grabbed mine and ate half of it while driving (not generally recommended!) to nearby Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Yum!

Sea kayaking on the Fundy coast

Every time I sea kayak the Bay of Fundy I'm astonished that we can do this awesome sport in such an extraordinary coastal environment. First kayak of the year this season happens to have been with Nova Shores in Advocate Harbour, Nova Scotia.

Like many of the kayak companies based in Fundy, owners Werner and Else Marie like to have a little fun with their guests by 'parking' the kayaks on dry beach and allowing the tide to come in to float the kayakers out to start the tour. Kinda makes an impression with visitors, that's for sure.

Here are some images of the coming-up-to-high tide launch then way low tide (this was after we were well back and had enjoyed dinner at the Wild Caraway Cafe). 'twould be a long haul dragging those kayaks across that vast expanse of beach had gone on a longer adventure!

Check out previous blog posts for all Fundy companies I've kayaked with, all on the New Brunswick side: Baymount Outdoor Adventures, FreshAir Adventures, and Seascape Kayak Tours. All fun folks who run super tours!

Drinking Fundy Mist

Tea drinkers who frequent specialty tea & coffee shops are likely aware of a fine little beverage: London Fog (also known as Vanilla Tea Misto). It consists of steamed milk, vanilla syrup and Earl Grey Tea. I was prowling the Bay of Fundy this week and ended up in a coffee shop (The Designer Cafe on Main Street in Kentville, Nova Scotia) where I discovered a fun Fundy-themed tea variation: Fundy Mist. This drink consists of steamed milk, hazelnut syrup and Chai tea (tea bag not latte gloop). It's the perfect drink for a fresh foggy/misty Fundy day!

By the way, their apple cinnamon buns or zucchini-chocolate chip muffins and regular panini n' fresh soup or salad options were also excellent!

Seaside deck dining at Gables

I've several favourite eateries in St Andrews, New Brunswick. In summer, especially, The Gables Restaurant on the waterfront tops the list. The menu is varied and fun, the beverages are plenty, the harbourside a-tree-grows-through-it deck fabulous, the atmosphere light and the staff always jovial.

I think the owner (or chef) is Scottish which means some peculiar items occasionally turn up on the menu, such as Tuesday night's special this week: Cullen Skink. This is a traditional Scottish soup often made with beef (em, not so thrilling for me, the pescetarian....) but there's also a version with smoked fish. As a Scottish descendant myself (well, it's 6 generations ago, but hey...), I do consider myself predisposed to admire foods from the 'old country'. We ordered it, of course.... an it was great! Apparently, this item only appears on the menu a few times a year.

P.S. this is also the perfect spot for a fresh lobster feed!

McLobster anyone?

It's not only Bay of Fundy fish n' chip joints and modern bistros that get in the mood for developing local culinary delights each season; here you'll also witness such stalwarts as McDonald's shaking up its menu. Many of our fast food restaurants offer a limited-time-offer rendition of a Fundy favourite: the somewhat ordinary, but really quite tasty, "lobster roll".

The recipe is quite simple:

• mix fresh lobster bits with mayo, salt & pepper
• edge with lettuce
• then fill a toasted or grilled hot dog bun.
  

In true McDonald's fashion the lobster roll is titled: "McLobster". Seasonal availability (usually just summer) is announced on the classic outdoor slotted billboard as evidenced by the photo I took this week.

Seafood cambozola linguine at Kellock's

When I wake up in a next life, I think I'd like to be a chef or a restaurateur. In the meantime, I'm content to wander the Bay of Fundy in search of indigenous foods and funky bistros.

While in the Annapolis Valley region of the Bay of Fundy recently, I visited a favourite eatery: Kellock's in Berwick, Nova Scotia. This restaurant is located in a smartly restored heritage house (love that tin ceiling) on the main street. My two top choice menu items are Thai Curried Chicken and the Cambozola Linguine with Mussels, Scallops, Shrimp (pictured here). The Friday night special is always great and they really know how to cook local fish properly. That's always a relief!

World's best chowder!

Just like many other coastal regions in North America, the Bay of Fundy has its share of restaurants claiming (but rightfully, in our case, of course!) to have the World's best seafood chowder!

From personal experience, I have to say that The Caves Restaurant in St Martins, New Brunswick, is a top contender for this honour....

Not only is the chowder great in this family style restaurant but diners have a panoramic view of the sculpted sandstone sea caves, the horizontal tidal effect, and a vast section of exposed ocean floor (at low tide). What a perfect combination of activities to complement the world's best chowder!

Pull pork at Coco Pesto Bistro

As mentioned in my previous post about Opera Bistro, I have a particular fondness for restaurants serving fresh, local Bay of Fundy ingredients in creative ways. Another of my favorite dining experiences is Coco Pesto Bistro, located in the Woodshire Inn, in Windsor, Nova Scotia. This bistro opened nearly two years ago and, in my opinion, was quite a refreshing addition to the mostly pub and fast food dining scene in this part of the bay.

The Bistro reflects the seasonal abundance of our region, with three licensed dining rooms and outdoor terraced dining. An applewood fired smoker provides diners with the opportunity to enjoy such favourites as dry-rub pork ribs, smoky pulled pork on a bun and signature sauces such as house-made, smoked, sweet pepper compote. Coco Pesto also offers a fine menu of local and international wines. Due to the Bistro's popularity, reservations are recommended!!

Exploring Cape d'Or Lighthouse

Here's a post that can easily fit in both the 'lighthouse' and 'places to eat' categories of my blog: the Cape d'Or Lighthouse. Cape d'Or is one of the best places to see Fundy's tidal rips: wild, upwelling tidal currents.

The site also offers a panoramic view of the upper part of the Bay of Fundy in the exact location where it splits into its two smaller bays: Chignecto Bay and the Minas Basin. And, even better, there is an amazing restaurant in one of the former lightkeeper's houses (the other house is used as a tourist guest house!).

Here a fun video of Darcy, the operator of the restaurant and guest house describing what makes Cape d'Or so cool.

Although the lighthouse was de-staffed in 1989 (automated), there's been a fog whistle at Cape d'Or since 1875 to warn mariners of the Cape's extreme tidal rips. Now the site is a great reward for those who take the time to drive 20 minutes up the dirt road from the nearby village of Advocate Harbour, Nova Scotia. One caution though: the cliffs are quite extreme here, ranging from 300 to 500 feet sheer vertical drop so this is not a great place to visit with little kids.

My first restaurant review

Okay, I can't take it any longer.... I've been resisting making suggestions for dining experiences around the Bay of Fundy because, well, I've got a confession to make: if I tell you about my favorite places to eat you'll never find the best Bay of Fundy hamburger or steak. The thing is: I don't eat red meat so any thoughts I'm going to share in my new blog category: "best places to eat" are going to focus on fresh, local, regional, sometimes seasonal cuisine that's veg, fish or chicken served up in picturesque or artful settings around the Bay of Fundy. If you're up for this kind of culinary adventure then hop aboard!

So... allow me to introduce my first memorable dining experience: Opera Bistro in Saint John, New Brunswick. I like Opera so much that I ate there several days in a row this week. Owners Margret and Axel Begner (Chef) have infused Opera's decor, service and menu with their infectious European flair and charm. The menu (and wine list) is creative, eclectic and fun!

This photo shows me agonizing over which flavour of tartlette or homemade gelato to take back to the hotel for a midnight snack...would that we all faced this dilemma daily!